El Palenque recently opened in a former Denny's at the corner of Niagara Falls Boulevard and Eggert Road. Its booths, chairs and tables are decorated with colorful carved wood art, which kept our children entertained.

They didn't like the corn chips and salsa, which was odd. The chips were thin and freshly cooked, the salsa undistinguished.

The menu runs that gamut of Western New York Mexican, with tacos, burritos, fajitas and dinner plates comprising most of the menu. Prices run up to $23 for a large Parillada Mexicana, a special assorted fajita platter. Lunch specials range from the Speedy Gonzalez (taco, enchilada, rice or beans) for $4.25, to $6.59 for a beef or chicken quesadilla with rice.

Jarritos Mexican sodas are available, along with a selection of tequilas, margaritas, wine and beer. Kids meals for $4.50 include a large drink, with a hamburger, chicken fingers, quesadillas or tacos.

We got an appetizer of Queso Fundidi Y Chorizo ($5.50), which wasn't the cheese-dip-with-sausage other places present. It was a dish of spicy cooked sausage, chiles and onions, topped with cheese and warm tortillas on the side. It disappeared quickly - we just wished there was more of it.

No complaints about the Carnitas en Chile Verde ($8.79), though. Chunks of tender, sweet roast pork are served in salsa verde with rice, refried beans and tortillas. The pleasantly sour sauce had elements of tomatillo, green chile and cilantro that stood out.

Kathy had the Enchilada Jalisco ($7), which was three chicken enchiladas in a mild chile sauce with lettuce, tomato, sour cream and guacamole.

She liked the enchiladas' mixture of chicken chunks, onions and peppers. The guacamole was obviously freshly made, with small chunks of avocado, not the green mystery goo some places pump out. It was too spicy for her taste, though.

Lydia enjoyed her small beef fajitas ($11). The chewy beef, served hot on a bed of peppers, onions and tomatoes, carried decent grilled taste. Only a trace of the promised pico de gallo accompanied guacamole and sour cream, though.

We skipped the deep-fried ice cream this time - but we'll be back. In a place that does the basics this well, the carne asada and chicken in chipotle sauce ought to be eye-openers.

- Andrew Galarneau

El Palenque is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday; noon to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. It is handicapped-accessible.

El Palenque

951 Niagara Falls Blvd., Amherst

446-9206

"We'll be back."

3 pennies

(Out of four)